A Contemporary Vision of Haute Horlogerie

Winner of the Horological Revelation award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2013, the TYPE 3 represents Ressence’s watchmaking philosophy: a balance of technological innovation, mechanical complexity and timeless design.
The approach of Ressence is characterised by the elimination of both standard watch hands and crown, the minimization of the case and the maximization of legibility thanks to oil-filled technology.

The Type 3 builds on the unique patented complication Ressence introduced in 2010 with its Zero series. The ROCS, or Ressence Orbital Convex System, initiated a new way of reading the time without the use of traditional hands. Rather sub-dial discs continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set. They are an integral part of the curved dial and their graphs appear to be projected onto the top crystal as if onto a screen.



The ROCS employs a specially modified automatic caliber that gives the minutes, and hence the base calculation of time, from which is extrapolated all the other temporal indications. The TYPE 3 features a six-part display complication: hours, minutes, runner, day of the week, date and oil temperature.
Because the oil’s volume will fluctuate with temperature, the watch is fitted with a system of seven small bellows. these compress when, with rising temperature, the oil volume increases, or expand if the temperature drops and the volume decreases. The result stabilises the fit of the oil within the watch. The system is indirectly connected to the oil temperature gauge on the dial, so the TYPE 3 owner can see a representation of the bellows capacity in action.
As the ROCS is physically separated from the rest of the watch, Ressence developed a unique magnetic transmission. Several micro magnets, connected to each other, are positioned inside the oil-filled upper half and the dry lower half. The use of super conductors and the provision of a shield fully protect this system from any negative effects of magnetism.
The watch is run by the specially customised 2824/2 calibre, which comes with a 36 hour power reserve.

With the TYPE 3, Ressence introduced its oil-filled technology, a world first in mechanical horology. The entire upper half is filled with 35.7 mm of oil to obtain a visual effect which is stunning and truly unique. This creates an amazing legibility and the dial seems closer.
The TYPE 3’s case comprises two curved sapphire crystal glasses connected by a 2 mm wide titanium band. As a consequence of this curvature, the watch sits only on the middle of the wrist. Characteristic of Ressence design, the lack of a crown also contributes to this exemplary ease of wear. The entire sapphire case-back fulfils the winding and setting functions of the crown.

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Tissot Tradition Perpetual Calendar

Lançado em 2011, o Tissot Tradition Perpetual Calendar oferece uma complicação rara neste formato, movimento e gama de preços: trata-se de um relógio analógico com movimento de quartzo (calibre G15.561) e calendário perpétuo.
O conceito de calendário perpétuo é o de um movimento com acerto automático nos meses que não têm 31 dias incluindo o reconhecimento de anos bissextos.
Este tipo de calendário é comum em relógios de quartzo digitais e surge como grande complicação em dispendiosos modelos mecânicos. Contudo, não é comum em relógios de quartzo analógicos. Além disso, a visão da Tissot para este modelo teve uma concretização particularmente feliz, pois o relógio é muito bonito – embora seja particularmente fotogénico, pelo que poderá criar algum desapontamento ao vivo – utilizando ponteiros para indicação do mês, dia da semana e dia do mês.
Em Portugal, este modelo custa €379 (preço Boutique dos Relógios) existindo igualmente uma variação com mostrador preto e bracelete em aço, por €398, quanto a mim não tão bonita.

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Movas Chronograph

À semelhança da Perpetual, também a Movas é uma empresa que mostra orgulho na sua origem asiática. Contudo, as diferenças começam e acabam aí, pois a Movas é uma empresa criada por um jovem arquiteto entusiasta da relojoaria (Sean Wai), que procura novas vias e novos desenhos para as suas peças.
O resultado são relógios que estão nos antípodas das cópias mais ou menos bem conseguidas de designs de referência e que, pelo contrário, mostram uma grande vontade de criar tendências e trilhar caminhos independentes.
Descobri a Movas num teste ao primeiro (e, na altura, único) modelo da marca, aqui. Desde então, a Movas criou vários modelos, todos eles mecânicos e baseados em movimentos produzidos na China.
Curiosamente – ou talvez não... – o modelo que mais despertou a minha atenção foi um dos mais convencionais da gama atual, o Movas Chronograph.
Gosto muito de cronógrafos (tenho um Tissot PRC 200) mas acho que têm o problema de serem todos muito parecidos uns com o outros e, quando as marcas tentam fazer algo que as distinga dos concorrentes, as coisas nem sempre correm bem. Este Movas Chronograph é bonito, invulgar, e bem construído: caixa em aço 316L de 45mm, vidro de safira com 2mm de espessura e revestimento anti-reflexo, vidro mineral traseiro para exibição do movimento e resistência à água até 100 metros. O preço são uns razoáveis 670 dólares, ou cerca de €512, a partir do site do fabricante.

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Festina Elegance F16573_4

Festina é uma marca espanhola do grupo do mesmo nome (foi adquirida em 1984), mas cuja origem suíça remonta a 1902.

A marca tem imensos modelos cronógrafos que considero demasiado busy para o meu gosto, mas entre a sua gama atual encontro algumas peças mais clássicas, como este modelo de quartzo que pode encontrado à venda por menos de €100, o que me parece uma verdadeira pechincha – especialmente quando comparado com relógios fashion genéricos.

O modelo F16573 pertence à gama Elegance da marca e existem cinco variantes, consoante a cor da caixa, da mostrador e da bracelete. As funcionalidades incluem indicação de data por mostrador retrógrado às 12H00 e indicador de 24 horas às 6H00.

A caixa é em aço e o mostrador tem vidro mineral normal – como seria de esperar neste gama de preços. Note-se que o relógio é bastante grande para um dress watch (45mm), o que poderá não servir para todos os pulsos.

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Tissot Quickster Chronograph

Há uma tendência generalizada de criar cronógrafos que esteticamente se afastam bastante das suas raízes de "relógio desportivo" – desde dress watches até mesmo a relógios de mergulho. Nesse sentido, este Tissot Quickster Chronograph é um regresso às origens, com uma estética que não deixa duvidas sobre as suas pretensões desportivas (mesmo que o seu possuidor nunca, u quase nunca, utilize as suas funções de cronógrafo!).

A coleção a que esta referência em particular pertence (T095.417.36.057.02) inclui nada menos de 24 variantes, com múltiplas conjugações de cor de mostrador, de caixa, bisel e bracelete. selecionei este devido à sobriedade agressiva do revestimento PVD negro e do bisel cinzento que em nada afetam um resultado final de grande legibilidade. Uma gama designada Quickster NATO, com pulseiras contínuas em nylon, inclui mais 7 variantes.

Este modelo com caixa em aço de 42mm de diâmetro é baseado num movimento cronógrafo de quartzo ETA G10.211, muito usado não só pela marca em muitos dos seus modelos mas também fora do Grupo Swatch, uma vez que a ETA vende os seus movimentos para integração em relógios produzidos por terceiros.

O mostrador, protegido por vidro de safira, possui apenas numerais na posição das 12 horas, sendo as restantes posições horárias assinaladas por índices. O bisel inclui um taquímetro graduado de 60 a 400.

O valor de referência que encontrei online para este relógio é da ordem dos 400 euros.

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Casio Edifice EQB-600D

A Casio continua no seu caminho de transformar a sua imagem da marca em algo mais do que apenas relógios digitais ou todo-o-terreno. E a gama Edifice é sem dúvida instrumental nesta transformação.

O mais recente exemplo tem a referência EQB-600D e chega-nos através de duas variantes, 1A2ER e 1AER, com um preço da ordem dos 399€.

Tal como outros Casio de que já aqui falámos, também este tem funcionalidades avançadas graças à possibilidade de ligação via Bluetooth a um smartphone iOS ou Android através de uma app própria. É um conceito que me agrada mais do que o do tradicional smartwatch e que tem inúmeras vantagens: continua a ter uma estética de relógio "como deve ser", não precisa de duplicar funcionalidades já presentes no smartwatch e tem uma autonomia praticamente ilimitada (sobretudo neste caso, em que é usado um movimento de quartzo com alimentação por energia solar).

Neste caso, partimos de uma bonita caixa em aço com um avantajado diâmetro de 47,3 mm mas com apenas 13,3 mm de espessura e resistência à água até 100 metros. O mostrador é particularmente elegante e a sua característica mais saliente é o globo terrestre 3D às 3h00 para exibição da hora mundial – é possível a exibição em simultâneo de um segundo fuso horário.

As funcionalidades "smart" incluem acerto automático da hora, ajuste da hora de Verão, acerto rápido de fuso horário para cerca de 300 cidades e localizador do telemóvel. A app grátis pode ser obtida aqui.

O preço, que como já disse anteriormente é de 399€, parece-me muito bem ajustado ao que nos é oferecido. Encontrei a variante 1AER à venda na Amazon Espanha pelo preço de referência (e portes grátis para Portugal).

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Omega Watches Precision in Chronographs and Chronometers

Omega watches were founded in 1848 by Louis Brandt. The watches were produced with the aim to surpass others in high precision timing. His two sons took over the company after his death and created their own in-house manufacturing system. They focused strongly on producing their own calibers.

After these two sons passed on in 1903, their eldest descendent Paul Emile-Brandt at age 24 took over the company. Even at that young age, he was able to take the 800 workers workshop to new heights. He merged the company into the SSIH group in 1930 which later took in many other brands within its umbrella.

It also became the first independent company to be the official timekeeper for Olympics in Los Angeles in 1931. The next breakthrough was in 1965 when their Speedmaster Professional was declared by NASA as flight-qualified for all their manned space missions. The first walk in space by astronaut, Edward White, was wearing the very watch.

Then in 1969, the first astronauts, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, used their Omega watches to land on the moon. Another test on the watch company was the Apollo 13 explosion of their service module in 1970. The astronauts had to fly back their craft with total power supply cut with limited oxygen supply. Their ability to re-enter earth’s atmosphere was done with the help of Speedmaster watches that helped them earn the Snoopy Award, a high honor given by astronauts to their suppliers.

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Trage dein Herz auf dem Ärmel

Zenith ist seit Generationen eine Marke für Zeitputz-Puristen. Obwohl sie nicht gerade als "Mainstream" -Marke von Uhrmachern gelten, haben diejenigen, die sich dem Handwerk verschrieben haben, oder ihre Kollektionen den größten Respekt vor Zenith für ihre klassischen Designs und ihr Engagement für innovative In-House-Bewegungen. Die vielleicht stolze Errungenschaft des letzteren ist das El Primero-Uhrwerk, der allererste Schweizer Automatik-Chronograph, der das Spiel der Luxusuhrenwelt von Anfang an verändert hat. Jetzt hat Zenith mit dem Star El Primero Open Chronograph diese Innovation für den Damenuhrenmarkt unter Beweis gestellt.


Fühle die Liebe!

Wenn die Bewegung der figurative "Herzschlag" einer Uhr ist, hat Zenith diese Vorstellung an einen extrem wörtlichen Ort gebracht. Ein offener, herzförmiger Chronograph bei 9 und 10 zeigt dieses bahnbrechende Werk, und der Rest der Uhr ist ebenfalls ein Blickfang. Die arabischen Ziffern auf dem Zifferblatt nehmen sehr große und unorthodoxe Formen an, die Salvador Dali sehr stolz machen würden. Das Zifferblatt verfügt auch über eine Gangreserve bei 6 und wer kann den süßen herzförmigen Sekundenzeiger weglassen (ich kann nicht). Kombinieren Sie all diese Elemente und es fällt schwer, sich vorzustellen, dass das Zifferblatt so sauber und ordentlich aussehen kann, und doch tut es das. Dies ist nicht einfach eine Damenuhr, die dafür gedacht ist, die Komplikationen Ihrer Uhr zu zeigen; Das ist eine ernsthafte Aussage, ernsthafter Stil und eine ernsthaft zeitgenössische Uhr.

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Would You Pay $150,000 or More for a Used Watch?

The word “used” naturally turns people off, but in the world of watches, collectors clamor for used — or vintage — timepieces. If you are interested in starting a watch collection, adding to a watch collection or owning a piece of history, you may want to go online tomorrow (September 30) and do a little vintage watch buying at the Antiquorum Auctioneers’ “Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces” auction, which will take place in New York City.

Among the top lots going up for sale is one of the earliest known Rolex Sea-Dwellers that belonged to filmmaker and oceanographer Philippe Cousteau (son of the legendary Jacques Cousteau). It is anticipated that the watch — an extremely rare find — will fetch between $100,000 and $150,000.



The Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the more important diving watches designed in the second half of the 20th century. The collaboration with diving professionals and government agencies guided Rolex to introduce the first-ever use of the helium gas escape valve in a wristwatch so it could sustain intense underwater pressure. The rare Sea-Dweller up for sale (Ref. 1665) went through several revisions in order to perfect the design, allowing many of the deepest diving missions. This watch bears one of the earliest serial numbers (1'602'920), placing it in the era of Single Red Sea-Dwellers, of which only six are known to exist. The watch is a center seconds, stainless steel chronometer with Double-Red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve and Oyster FlipLock bracelet.



Philippe Cousteau, who learned to dive at the age of five, drew attention to the amazing world of underwater life in the movie “The Silent World,” which won him the prestigious Palme D’Or award at the Cannes Film Festival in 1956. He became the lead photographer on many of his father’s expeditions on the oceanographic research vessel the Calypso and produced numerous important documentaries about underwater life. After having worn the watch for 10 years, Philippe gifted it to Thomas Horton, who was a close friend of the Cousteau family. The watch is sold with a letter from Thomas Horton’s son, who recounts his early childhood memories about his father and the Cousteau family. It is also accompanied by several 8 X 10 photos showing Philippe Cousteau wearing the watch, a book “Diving Companions” by Jacques Cousteau and Philippe Diole, and other items.



If you are more of a land lover than a sea lover, you may want to take a look at the Rolex Paul Newman Oyster Cosmograph Daytona watch (Ref. 6239), which features a black dial and steel case. Circa 1964, the watch is a chronograph with tachymeter bezel and Oyster bracelet. It is expected to sell for between $75,000 and $100,000. Other great finds include a set of four Vacheron Constantin Metiers D’Art Les Masques 2008 self-winding watches. The four include cases crafted in platinum, 18-karat rose, 18-karat yellow gold and 18-karat white gold — each with a distinctive Mask dial. Estimated sale price is $500,000 to 700,000.

In that same half-million-dollar-and-up range is another attention grabber: the astronomical self-winding minute repeater, Ref. 5213, from Patek Philippe. The 18-karat white gold watch with retrograde perpetual calendar and moon phases is further accompanied by a fitted box, Certificate of Origin and a leather folder with instructions. If this timepiece catches your attention, you will have to dig deep into your pockets. Antiquorum experts expect it to fetch between $550,000 and $750,000.



Of course, there are dozens upon dozens of other timepiece brands up for bid. The important thing about buying at auction is you need to know what you want before you go into it. But that’s a story for another day.

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What It Means When a Watch Is Shock Resistant

Shock Resistance is a fairly recent term in the world of watches. As more and more people are leading active lifestyles, watch brands are going to great lengths to create timepieces that are resistant to damage when dropped or when subjected to stringent and constant motion — such as being worn on the wrist during a tennis match.



Essentially, a watch is shock resistant if it can cope with shocks to the movement, especially to the delicate pivots that hold the balance wheel in place. Different watch brands offer various methods of making a watch shock resistant, but the general idea is to use a spring suspension system for the balance wheel.

One of the first systems — invented in the early 1930s — was the Incabloc system, a trade name for a spring-loaded mounting system for the jewel bearings that support the mechanical watch’s balance wheel. Swiss engineers developed the system in 1934 and it has become a standard in the industry with a flat jewel and endnote being spring-loaded into the main plate and balance cock so the bearings move laterally or vertically when subjected to shock.



Today, most watches have some degree of shock resistance, but dive watches, certified Chronometers and many pilot watches maintain a higher level of shock resistance — as they are specifically built to go the distance.

The International Organization of Standardization (ISO) has also issued certain standards of shock resistance. In the horology world, to be called shock resistant a watch must meet certain tests and controls (the limit is determined based on a watch accidentally falling from a height of about three feet onto a hardwood surface). In testing, a watch undergoing shock must keep its accuracy in the range of +/- 60 seconds/day.



Photo courtesy: Incabloc

Some brands today also conquer the issue of shock resistance via new materials and developments. This includes using synthetic jewels, silicon hairsprings, non-ferrous escape wheels, as well as adding inner and outer containers to the housing. Some brands have even developed all new case constructions with pressure absorbing elements.

If you are the active person, having a shock-resistant watch may just be right up your alley.

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Why Watch Companies Use Rubies in Watch Movements

When you are buying a fine timepiece with a mechanical movement inside, the technical specifications for the caliber usually list the number of jewels. Typically, those jewels are synthetic rubies, but sometimes brands use synthetic blue sapphires, as well — for a bit of a different look. The thing is, unless the movement is visible via a transparent caseback, you don't even see those jewels. So then, why use them at all? The reason is simple and effective: using synthetic jewels in the movement as bearings actually reduces friction within the caliber and therefore gives the movement a longer life by reducing wear and tear.



Adding jewels instead of mechanical metal pieces to do the bearings' job helps ensure accuracy. It also enables the watch brand to make the movement smaller in size and in weight than it would if the parts were made of metal. Additionally, rubies can withstand temperature changes and so offer stability. However, setting these minuscule jewels into their designated spots on the movement is no easy task. In fact, seasoned watchmakers must do this job using tweezers and microscopes. In the end, though, the look is beautiful, and it is great if you get to see the rubies (or sapphires) in all their glory in the timepiece.

As noted, these jewels are synthetically developed. Most use aluminum and chromium oxide that undergo heating, fusing and crystallizing processes. These rubies are not as valuable as natural rubies. The number of rubies that are used in each watch movement varies depending on the timepiece and its complexity. Typically, a three-hands watch will have about 11 to 17 rubies in it. Generally, though, more complex calibers and more moving components will demand the use of more rubies.

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Swiss Replica Watches

Now-days it is dislike the Swiss replica watches are now being marketed at footpaths on trunks. There’s a detailed model of the initial work by the company and look at the design. After that the crafting is performed very minutely so your imitation which will be identical to the original high-priced watch when it comes to looks, style, vogue and luxury. Outs and the ins of the first watches are therefore common towards the supplier that making reproduction wasn’t a job that is large to them. To get a Swiss imitation watch people will not need to travel to different countries; it’s easily available in various online shopping sites with plenty of types that are different and selections. Today there are a Swiss imitation clients that were day’s operating out of every spot of the world.

Another strategy to discover a real Rolex is the fact that it should have a style number written at the situation that is 12th in it between your lugs. And at placement that is 6th there should be a number that is registered. You can be of being robbed sure if any of these amounts is missing. It is a matter of pride to possess a Rolex watch. It provides a peace of mind towards the buyers to owns a watch that has been built and designed by experts and it is recognized for the royalty.

One aspires to use a luxury watch and with a replicated watch it’s possible to create one’s wish come true and certainly will have outstanding look with school and type. The benefit of imitation watches are noticeable as this really is produced by pros and also the style resembles the first watches that will be copying. It’s gem of finest and top quality activity, stainlesssteel. These watches also boost one’s self esteem building one classy.

The theory to give a watch isn’t a poor idea since the phenomenon for watches is still on high-demand for your people of all era notwithstanding the advancement of mobile phones. The watch might be worn everyday and may be considered a note of the family members who skilled the watch.Bitte sehen uhr fake oder Replica Rolex Sea Dweller

Planet Design SA101 Treiber LED

Heute trage ich wieder eine meiner japanischen Modewatch-Kollektionen mit diesem Modell von Planet Design. Dies ist die 8. Planet Design Uhr, die hier zu sehen ist, und es ist ein ganz anderer Stil als alle anderen, die vorher gekommen sind. Die Planet Design Uhren werden von einer Firma namens Emit Co Ltd aus Japan hergestellt, die eine moderne Version von Retro-Styles produziert (und mehr darüber können Sie auf meinen anderen Planet Design Posts finden).

Dieses Modell ist der SA101 und ist ein sehr luxuriöser Blick auf den LED-Stil der Fahrer. Es ist eigentlich ein 4-stelliges LED-beleuchtetes LCD-Display, das von einem japanischen Quarzmodul betrieben wird und über Zeit- und Datumsanzeigen verfügt. Das Display ist so geneigt, dass Sie das Display sehen können, wenn Sie Ihr Handgelenk auf der Seite haben. Wenn Sie jedoch eine Taste drücken müssen, um die Uhrzeit anzuzeigen, müssen Sie immer noch eine Hand vom Rad entfernen.

Das luxuriöse Gefühl kommt von der Anordnung des Riemens und dem Finish des Gehäuses. Es ist ein dickes, glattes, mattes Lederdesign, aber die obere Hälfte des Armbands kommt über die Oberseite der Uhr, um sich dem Display anzunähern. Das Gehäuse ist aus gebürstetem Stahl auf der Vorderseite, mit glänzenden Seiten und einer glänzenden Umrandung zum Display hinter dem gebogenen Glas. Der Planet Design Name wird in den Riemen unter dem Gesicht gedrückt und der Name und das Logo befinden sich auf der Rückplatte.

Die meisten der anderen Planet Design Uhren können online zum Verkauf angeboten werden, aber für dieses Modell habe ich keinen Treffer bei meinen Suchanfragen gefunden. Da die anderen Uhren ziemlich modern zu sein scheinen (wie in den 2010er Jahren), würde ich das Gleiche für das hier annehmen, aber vielleicht ist es etwas älter als der Rest.




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Super Lovers - Liebes-Liebes-Nachrichtenuhr

Heute bin ich wieder bei den Super-Lovers-Uhren und wieder einmal ist es ein ganz anderer Stil (weshalb ich diese Marke so sehr mag).

Dieses Modell habe ich Love Love Message genannt, basierend auf dem Text, der an der Spitze des Falles steht. Wie von dem Namen erwartet werden kann, ist diese Uhr eine mit einer Nachrichten- / Notizfunktion, bei der Kurznachrichten in ihrem Speicher gespeichert werden können. Diese werden mit der obersten Zeile des LCD angezeigt, die ein Punktmatrix-Array ist (5x41, so dass 7x5 Buchstaben gleichzeitig angezeigt werden können). Die untere Zeile des LCDs ist ein Standardsatz von Ziffern (6), der normalerweise die Uhrzeit anzeigt. Der Rest der Modi ist ziemlich Standard, mit Dual-Time-, Stoppuhr-, Timer- und täglichen Alarmoptionen sowie dem Nachrichtenmodus.

Das Gehäuse ist rund und besteht aus durchsichtigem Kunststoff mit 4 Knöpfen an den Kanten. Es gibt eine große Taste auf der Vorderseite unter dem LCD, und dies aktiviert die el-Hintergrundbeleuchtung. Das Armband ist ein passender klarer Kunststoff und hat das Super Lovers Logo und den Text Lovers Digital auf beiden Hälften. Die Rückseite der Uhr ist aus Edelstahl und hat nur den Namen Super Lovers in der Mitte gedruckt.

Ich weiß nicht, wann dieses Modell ist, da es nicht viel über diese Marke online gibt (aber alle Informationen, die ich bisher gesammelt habe, finden sich auch in meinen anderen Super Lovers Beiträgen). Meine Vermutung ist, dass dies ein Modell der frühen 2000er Jahre wäre, aber es ist eine reine Vermutung.



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